No wonder half the locals we met had gone to Grand Manan with the intention of staying for a day or two but never left. Even for Wilcox, our tour was a banner day on the sea. Within an hour, he had brought us alongside a trio of humpbacks, whom first mate Durlan Ingersoll identified as Rooftop, Halfmoon and Tether by the markings on their breeching tails.

For my husband, the pinnacle came on shore, when we descended into the basement of Special K, a lobster-fishing outfit near the ferry dock, to pick out a quartet of pound-and-a-halfers for dinner one night. Lobster-fishing season ends in June, but Special K had 40, pounds of the crustaceans chilling in giant cement tanks, ready to be shipped to New York and China.

My seven-year-old daughter, who dreams of being a paleontologist, found heaven on a rocky beach, where the ebbing tide had revealed thousands of surf-smooth stones in every colour. There was something almost meditative about stooping low over thousands of rocks, deciding which ones were worth lugging back home to Toronto the answer: many, at least 20 pounds worth , while my son and husband caught tiny, cranky green grabs and sea eels left exposed by the retreating water.

We returned to that beach every day. On one trip, we met a teenager named Ben Spicer, whose full-time job was picking black, slimy nori off the rocks to be dried and shipped to sushi joints in Toronto and New York. By the end of the week, as we headed back on the ferry with some humpbacks along to bid us farewell, I knew exactly what he meant.

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Despite being bundled up in three layers of semi-pervious clothing and a toque mid-June, I am island bound. Quirpon Island to be more specific, on the windswept North Atlantic just off the main island of Newfoundland.

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The destination: Quirpon Lighthouse Inn. The province is full of beauty and surprises, and this short boat ride is no exception. The island, in the northwest of Newfoundland, has a temperate marine climate, which means thick fog can turn into bright sunshine in mere moments, and so it does. It also means that a swift current in the Gulf of St. Lawrence can screw up your Zodiac landing when the pack ice and its massive chards ice pans, or when larger, floes from Labrador suddenly jam up your regular docking area beside the inn.

And so it does. While our bags are spirited away by an ATV, over the next few hours we traverse six kilometres of rolling hills and deep springtime mud. This is an impromptu hike in the land of awe. There are rocky outcrops and panoramic views of blue ocean. My shoulders relax, my smile widens, my allergies deepen.

Near Quirpon, the majority of the icebergs spotted float down a 1,kilometre stretch from the glaciers of western Greenland, arriving in Newfoundland in May and June each year. We had started seeing some during our hike across the island, mere smudges on the horizon. But today, one day on, I pull open the blinds in my sunny clapboard bedroom, and one of those smudges now looks as if it is right outside my window.

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Scale is a funny thing out here. They are luminous and sculptural, with every shade in the blue spectrum represented. We putt-putt around one, the group of six smiling in quiet awe. While it may have taken some effort to get here, it is even harder to leave. In this particular part of eastern Manitoba, on the southern edge of Whiteshell Provincial Park, a 2, square kilometre plot of wilderness, getting away from it all starts with the 4x4 all-terrain vehicle. He loads my bags and groceries in the 4x4 and we rumble along a rocky path, up and down hills through the forest, occasionally catching sight of remote High Lake, for nearly a kilometre until we arrive at my eco cabin nestled among the trees.

I unload my bags and the sound of the 4x4 vanishes as it drives back. The resort is hidden on the southern edge of the park. There are no TVs or radios in the cabins. There are, however, canoes and easy access to 20 kilometres of hiking trails, which double as cross-country ski trails in the winter. I begin each morning chopping wood to load into my stove at night.

After breakfast I hike, exploring the trails with a map I picked up at check-in. At night, I read by the fire. The first couple of days, I itch for internet access. I want to scroll through Instagram and my Twitter feed as I always do when bored.

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But soon enough, being disconnected becomes a gift. I sit on my dock looking at the lake, thinking only of how beautiful the forest is. One sunny day I walk through the woods and climb up to an outcropping of the Canadian Shield overlooking a massive lake. By now, I have settled into the rhythm of the place. I watch the wind on the lake. I listen to the birdsong. Make sure you have a decent pair of boots for hiking, as well as enough layers to keep you warm. Falcon Trails Resort offers nine lakefront cabins, each with a full kitchen and private hot tub. There are also six eco cabins for anyone looking to live off the grid.

I do feel lucky. Driving from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, the hamlet past the receding treeline on the Beaufort Sea, I swish along one of the most expensive gravel roads on the continent. The ITH is more than a route through moody wilderness. It represents a lifeline that connects Tuktoyaktuk to the rest of the country year-round. Before the ribbon-cutting in November, , summer access was by air or boat only; in winter, there was the ice road.

Now, people can come and go as they please. Flying over the tundra, which I did almost 10 years ago, before there was a road, you would never have spotted a vixen and her three kits playing tag on the shoulder. A pingo can grow by about two centimetres a year; the tallest, Ibyuk, reaches a height of 49 metres. Thanks to the ITH, you come face-to-face with wildness; you become part of the brief Arctic summer, when fireweed lights up the roadside. The community centre is the place to be on Saturday mornings, when cranberry pancakes with fixings such as scrambled eggs and sausages are served.

Fuelled up, I head to the Point, the end of the road. But what dominates this community of some people is a sense of optimism buoyed by the new road and the resulting influx of vacation dollars from travellers, who are greeted by houses that look on the bright side.

Even when Jacobson tells me a doctor comes only once a month, she smiles. She takes me back to the Point and drops me off at the visitor centre. Chunks of muktuk, or whale blubber, hang on a rope in the window. When she was growing up, she loved spending time on the land, hunting and fishing. With the boost in tourism thanks to the ITH, she and her father see an opportunity to build on traditions with a business offering dog-sled tours to the pingos. I drive back toward Inuvik, leaving the Land of the Pingos behind.

The raised gravel highway makes for a good pedestal, an elevated lookout on a diorama of gold-streaked sky and bright green hills. When the hands on my watch nudge past midnight, the sun comes out from behind the grey upholstery of clouds.

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Whether the sun brightens up the journey or the destination is not for me to answer. Mid to late July for blooming wild flowers; late August for the changing colours, when the ground seems to be lit on fire. The Arctic Ocean can hurl North Pole temperatures to shore on a whim, so bring a warm layer, such as a puffy coat, and a rain- and windproof outer shell. Keep binoculars handy; you never know what kind of wildlife you might spot.

And since mosquitos are the most plentiful wildlife, pack a mosquito net or a bug jacket. There is a handful of bed and breakfasts in Tuktoyaktuk; a couple of them with a kitchen if you prefer to cook your own lunch and dinner dining options are still limited. Beautiful marina with 63 boat sites and 10 Miraculous massage Kitchener family hot sex sites.

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